Luang Prabong 2: the Night Market

The Luang Proboang night market began in December 2002 as a market for tourists to buy traditional items before Christmas.  It mainly was started by Hmong women.  It had no electricity, so the site was lit mostly by candles.  The market never stopped and increased to over 100 stalls with Hmong and other crafts people.  Most state reasonable prices and  may come down a little.  We only found several younger people who were really high in their prices, based on what others quoted us.  Since 2005, there have been more and more Chinese and Vietnamese products according to a local website.  It is now open from about 5-ish to about 9:30 p.m.  One of the main streets is closed to host the market.

I bought a wonderful wall hanging for about $25 from the woman below.  I also bought a Hmong skirt there and Marcy bought some embroidered squares from another woman nearby.

Before our group separated, Kakada took us to an area where it was safe to eat street food.  For about $1, we were able to fill our plates with food.  Most of us ate at the vegetarian place that he suggested but there were also plenty of places to buy meat.

Some of the food was absolutely amazing!  Different views of the same spread.

Mark, Leah, and Janet serving themselves

  

After filling our plates, the woman who worked behind everything was happy to heat our food in a pan for us.

 

 The food was delicious and included items not seen in many Laotian restaurants.  I just found out today that the area is actually called the "Caterers' Evening Market," or at least that is what one website sait.  A lot of Laotians also eat there....and backpackers.  We ate there the next night too. 

Whole chicken or duck?

That artea also had vendors of fruit, fresh and dried, candies, and teas

a plateful of delicious food

Crickets and/or other bugs--fried

Richard was game at eating a bunch of them

Sign on the wall where we ate

Here are some packaged items for sale.  The tea was "bael" fruit.  Unfortunately it looked nice but had almost no taste.  I also bought tumeric tea (which I have not tasted yet) and citrus fruit tea, which I really like.  From Wikipedia:
Aegle marmelos, commonly known as bael, Bengal quince, golden apple stone apple, wood apple, bili, is a species of tree native to India. It is present throughout Southeast Asia as a naturalized species. The tree is considered to be sacred  by Hindus. Its fruits are used in traditional medicine and as a food throughout its range.

Fried buffalo skin

River Weed--tastes a bit more tangy than sea week, but Laos has no "sea"

I was really feeling the effects of the sinus infection and had started taking antibiotics so I didn't have the energy to take a lot of photos.  But I really enjoyed all that there was to see in the market.  There was a lot of diversity.  Marcy and I also looked for baby items to bring back to our children and to a few other friends who were expecting.  We saw these bibs and later saw bigger ones that we bought. There were quite a few of adorable, handmade booties and some lovely handmade cloth books.

Bibs with elephants, the symbol of Laos

Handmade booties

Books in Lao and English

Backpack?  Adorable but too small to be practical

Tea seller and her daughter

 I was amazed by some of the wood carvings of animals that I saw.

On the other end of the night market, we saw a sign for bikes for rent, including bikes (one speed) for 20,000 kip a day (a bit less than $2.50.)  Marcy rented one closer to the hotel the next day for that price and biked all over town.

She  also made it to the Phosy market, the largest on in town, which is 3/4th covered.   It has fruit, vegetables, etc. and small stalls of clothing too.

Other (mostly food) items for sale in one area on the street during the day, maybe on the edge of the Morning Market..

Not sure how long they could safely keep fish in that heat

 

Small bananas are the norm in SE Asia

One of several places we saw donuts for sale--quite a surprise for me

There was a small daytime Hmong market in a junction of two main streets, across the street from where the night market begins.  We bought a few things there including a hat and a scarf or two.  They also sold some amazing knives.

I wish I had had more time (and better health) to spend in the markets.  We went back a third time briefly to the night market, but I didn't have the energy to buy.  Glad that I started the antibiotics though!