Wednesday, February 15, 2017

Traveling near Antigua, Guatemala: an Organic Nursery, Caoba Farms, San Cristobal, Hato and Earth lodge,


Betsy and I stayed at a little "pension" in the southern part of old Antigua, about 5 blocks south of the main plaza on a quiet road.  We had meals with an interesting group of people, some coming to study Spanish, one to supervise her non-profit which helps keeps kids in school, and others just coming to enjoy the area.  They were from the US, Canada, Australia, England, and two who came to Chicago as adults but were born in Poland and Israel.  Some of them plus our neighbor Deet gave us suggestions of places to visit nearby.  There are a lot of places within 5 miles of town that were definitely worth the visit.

Deet is an American ex-pat from Chicago and elsewhere who has lived in Antigua for 24 years.  Deet took us to the local organic nursery, Vivero and Cafe de la Escalonia,  a five-minute walk down the road.
Myself, Betsy and Deet

Duck flower just before opening
Maybe ARISTOLOQUIA 
( Aristolochia gigantea )
 The site was originally a cattle grazing area but was transformed into a gorgeous organic nursery and cafe.  People come from the surrounding areas to buy plants from the  Vivero.   The planter below was made from a tire and some are sold there by the artist for about $40 each.  Last year we saw similar art work at the hotel on Lake Atitlan where we stayed.
Tire made into a planter
I tried sitting in a kiddie chair below also made from a tire and found out that they were not for sitting in but rather just for show!


Cigarette or Tobacco flower
 We saw the flower below in many different places.  Does anyone know its name?

On Saturdays at 10, Deet leads a group of people on a ten to 15 minute walk past the Vivero to Caoba Farms.  Each Saturday there is an crafts and farmers' market with lunch for sale.  The place was crowded, and we enjoyed walked through the market and seeing the organic farm.  On the way there, we ran into Bo, whom we had met at the Macadamia Nut farm last year where Bo had volunteered.  He was from the US and had worked as a surgical tech and first came to Guamala as part of a volunteer surgical team.  He fell in love with the country.
Betsy and Bo
Bo and Deet
We also saw this house blessing on a home we passed.
Peace for those that arrive; health for those that live here; happiness for those that leave.

Coffee is grown all around the area with tall trees among the plants to shade them.

Most walls have barbed wire on top to prevent people from climbing over and robbing the houses inside.
kiddie made sign inside
The entrance to Caoba Farm's Saturday fair
Below are a few of the items for sale:  Different kinds of organic honey and jams.
 Vegetables and peppers:

 Clothing:
Including recycled jeans/pants
 Farm produce including turmeric root to the left:
Nasturtiums grown on the farm and sold as salad ingredients

 Does anyone know the name of this fruit or vegetable?  It is not avocado.

Natural drinks, pesto, etc:
Natural soaps, creams, etc:

and many more including bee pollen, natural seed mixes and crakers, and a store with all kinds of natural items that I missed!

 Sit down lunch--there are 7.5 quetzales (Q) to the dollar. Homemade tortillas are delicious!
Chicken "estofado"
Women cooking on wood stoves
We walked around the organic gardens and saw covered areas, drip irrigation (pioneered in Israel), and uncovered areas with rows of  plants and herbs growing:


Chard and lettuce


Kale, the newest crop
Macadamia nut shells used as mulch in pathways


A huge rosemary bush

The moringa tree leaves, etc. can provide an amazing amount of nutrients when cooked.  Check it out online!  It may be the food of the future.  The tree is very fast growing too. We bought some cookies with moringa in them.
A moringa tree, also known as the miracle tree or tree for life

A solar dryer
Room where vegetables are brushed, rinsed and clean well with clear standards for cleanliness.  Betsy told me that cleaning vegetables before sending them to market greatly reduced produce loss.


Wash your boots before enteirng
Keep your fingernails clean and maintain personal hygiene in this area



Wash your hands before entering to work
 
At the market, we met a vendor from San Cristobal, a small town of about 650 people up the nearby "hill."  He had special spinning tops made by a man from there which reminded me of dreidels /sivivonim.
He suggested that we go up to San Cristobal the next day as there is a small market in the village and we could see the man who makes them.  Also, a local restaurant at San Cristobal, which was started by a man named Frank who owned Nim Pot,  has a vegetarian brunch on the weekends and one can see an amazing view while eating.  So Betsy and I decided to venture out there the next day, catching a ten Quetzal RT shuttle from Nim Pot.

We got off at the restaurant and walked 5 minutes up the hill to the small town of San Cristobal.  Along the way we saw palates used as fences between the street and local homes or shops.  The town looked cute and in good shape.


With people taking care to have flowers along the cobble stoned road.


We got up to the tiny town square with some shops and a church that was rebuilt after a major earthquake 41 years ago in 1976 with a 7.5 magnitude.


Food for sale

Three small tables of crafts



The table of the man who made the Guatemalan dreidel:  He makes quite a few wood toys, several of which his grandson enjoyed playing with.  


Betsy got this cue Purim grogger / raashan!

A grandma selling asked how many children I had and I showed her photos of my family.  We both had three children, but when I told her I had 5 grandchildren, she said that she "beat" me.  She had 8!

While I was chatting, Betsy saw this sign and wandered over to a cute store, where she bought several things including candles that probably will fit her hanukkiah.  We found out that the candles were not made locally but soon they would be  as the owner is constructing a candle making shop above this store.  Most people from this town work in Antigua but it would be nice to have a few more being able to stay and work in San Cristobal.  Betsy loved this mini pitchers and pails below and we both got a few.

Look how he repurposed egg containers to hold incense for sale!! 

We walked back down the hill, passing a local hotel/ restaurant that also looked inviting:



and then continued down a bit to get to the lovely restaurant, Cerro San Cristobal for their Sunday brunch.  This place is a lovely organic farm and farm to table restaurant with an amazing view!




I love the fresh, white, slightly tart cheese below and the plate is beautiful
 Two types of ripe platanos below
 Yummy, my plate:  two fried eggs, white queso frsco, fried cauliflower, beans, veggie tamale, fruit with crema,
especially papaya
Lots of choices of breads and tortillas
We then walked to the orchid greenhouse, with over 300 varieties grown here.


 A more modern wash basin



The organic garden beds are well-labeled and used drip irrigation
 Beets below

 Fennel or dill?



Oops!  Can't remember the name of the plant below.
 Roman lettuce--i.e. Romaine

 night flower or nasturtium Both its flowers and leaves are edible and featured in the salads at the Cerro San Cristobal restaurant.  The leaves are a bit peppery, according to the web site.
One of three large water reservoirs on the property, for irrigation during the dry season
 A weaving loom used by the woman who sells products below the restaurant

 A CBF light bulb protected by a used plastic  bottle

A memorial  to Frank Mays, who died in Dec. 2016, the founder of this farm
and restaurant and of Nim Pot

 Similar to the hojas de Eva that I remember from the Amazon almost 50 years ago

A gorgeous Henna's chick--so symetrical
A first attempt at a wind mill, made from a metal barrel, to help with the irrigation system.  Unfortunately, there has not been enough wind at the sight to make it worthwhile according to the administrator.

And our final destination near town:  Hato and Earth Lodge.  One can take a shuttle from a motorbike shop on 5th Av S for 20 Q.  Just stop at the shop and they will call the Earth Lodge for a vehicle to come down. unfortunately, we were unable to find the stop so we took a cab.  It was a bit far to walk and possibly a bit dangerous for two obvious tourists to walk. We got out at the town of Hato--where the H is actually pronounced.  it is a rather poor town with a school and a women's health clinic.
Sign by entrance on the wall:  Inhabitants of Hato, please.
Do not through garbage...
Don't dirty the water...
Don't pull out trees...
Thanks for your help.



Tin roofs below the road with mountains in the distance

Betsy walking down the dusty  road

Dog sleeping by the side of the road





Vaccinations for children, birth control for women

When we saw the sign below, we turned off the road and went down a rather steep path.  
The restaurant was open from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. for breakfast and lunch and dinner only by reservation.

Earth Lodge gives a percentage of sales to the school in Hato and encourages visitors to contribute.
I'd love to come back with grandchildren some day (and their parents) to sleep in the tree houses for two days!



Drinking ea and eating avocado while watching the view below.

Information on Earth Lodge--It is not a "budget" hotel.  People can expect to pay 200 quetzales a day for meals and room, or about $28 per person for the cheapest accommodation!  Explanations are in Spanish and/or English.
















Eating outdoors at Earth Lodge

Walking back up the hill from Earth Lodge

A public washing area in Hato, a very common site in towns and villages

As soon as we got out of Antigua, the air seemed cleaner and we heard more chirping and loud calling of birds--though we did hear plenty of birds calling each morning in our little pension too!    While Earth Lodge was mainly a place for foreign tourists, The weekend brunch of San Cristobal, the Caoba farm weekend market, and the organic nursery was mainly filled with Guatemaltecos.  

Our cab dropped us off near the lookout of Cerro de la Cruz, a big cross overlooking Antigua below.

It is an easy 10-20 minute walk to get up to this site from town, a famous viewpoint of Antigua.  It is named for a wooden cross that was placed on the hill in 1930.  Later it was replaced by a concrete one and is often illuminated.  

 Several locals sell items at little posts.  I bought a pair of earring from the man who made them. 

 The view of this site is lovely.  

I was concerned that it was not safe to go up, but police guard the site and the path well, 


and it is busier on the weekends. So we walked down from the spot into town, smiling at the colorful walls along homes as we walked back to town.


Sunday, February 12, 2017

A New Documentary on the Holocaust and the US's First Ambassador to Israel--worth watching!

Hello all, 

I  am on my way back from Guatemala after having an amazing  volunteering experience for two weeks.  Last Monday with 30 others in Antigua I saw an amazing new documentary  called "A Voice Among the Silent:  The Legacy of James G McDonald", maybe a Lamed Vavnik of his time. He was a Catholic and" Hard Wired for decency."  
Image result for james mcdonald, the US first ambassador to israel
In his earlier years, when he worked for NBC radio

 

A Voice Among The Silent: The Legacy of James G. McDonald

A Voice Among The Silent: The Legacy of James G. McDonald tells the remarkable story of a man who warned the wor...
 

Because of a job McDonald had with a US refugee organization, he traveled to Germany in 1933 and met with Hitler and heard him say that no one liked the Jews and that he planned to help the world and eliminate them.  McDonald tried to tell Roosevelt and others in power in the US, bug were not interested in pursuing the matter for a number of reasons.    

About 12 years ago, missing parts of McDonald's journals with this key information were discovered by the daughter of his secretary, and given to the Washington DC Holocaust Museum.  It contained a gold mine of information!


 The producer of this movie, an Israeli American, Shuli Eshel heard a lecture about McDonald in Chicago by the staffer at the DC Holocaust museum who went through over 10,000 pages in McDonald's diary, and she vowed to make a movie on it.  She managed to interview McDonald's two elderly daughters for the movie too.  I did buy a copy. and we should all see it.   I've told the Seattle Film Festival about it and the Holocaust Center for Humanity.  I could show it at my home too to friends.  I don't usually recommend a Holocaust movie bu this is a one that I feel many should see, Jewish or non-Jewish.



 Later McDonald became the first Us Ambassador to Israel, the most positive one that ever was in that position.

Image result for james mcdonald, the US first ambassador to israel
With Ben Gurion when Ambassador
Click on the link near the top of the blog for more information.

Saturday, February 11, 2017

Returning to Guatemala, Jan. 27, 2017--purpose and a beginning at Adat Israel and arrival in Antigua

Last year I joined a fabulous trip to Guatemala with Fair Trade Judaica and Maya Works to see Guatemalan weavers and crafts people, many of whom were making kippot and tallitot.

The town of San Antonio Aguas Calientes, about a ten minute car ride or 20--25 minute bus drive from Antigua, is known for having the finest weavers in the country. Their specialty is weaving on both sides of the material at the same times, especially birds and flowers.  When were were there, we were in a store of a national known weaver and saw her collection of traditional clothes from many regions of the country.  I asked if she had cataloged the information for her family and she said that it was all in her mind.  I asked if she would be interested in my coming back in a year to help her do so.  She agreed, so I did so!   Betsy Teutsch, the author of an amazing book 100 Under $100 who was also on the trip, offered to come along, and we have had an fantastic time together.  We completed our task, helped the family catalog over half of their collection and put it together in a 96 page word document, 3/4th filed with photos, for the family to have, came up with a three page introduction in English to their collection to share with visitors, and gave the impetus to her son to continue documenting and learning about the collection.

I arrived on a red eye, January 27, and was picked up by Alvaro Orantes, one of the founders of the Reform synagogue Adat Israel.  We dropped off my luggage and went out to lunch with his daughter, Rebecca, age 21, who hopes to become a Rabbi,  and helped me get a local cell phone.  Red eyes are no fun but I got upgraded to first class and sat next to a new friend, Lisa Jaffe from Seattle who was going to a writer's conference!

I was hosted in the guest room upstairs the small synagogue.  I was hosted by the caretakers, Brenda and Shlomo with their son teenage Aldani, their 5 year old daughter Sarah Eliana, and Brenda is pregnant with their son.  Around the dinner table we had a wonderful 20+ minute kabbalat Shabbat service and a wonderful meal.  

Sign of the synagogue

Inside Adat Israel

A small library--I brought 2 Hebrew-Spanish dictionaries
My friend Sarah and her Mom--Sarah and I became good friends
 Sarah like the Dora coloring book and Frozen crayons that I brought her.
Their siddur, from Costa Rica, in Hebrew, transliteration and Spanish
Shabbat Afternoon walk--Jeannette, the Prsident, is on the left
Saturday night traditional dinner, tamale, with the family
I was honored to chant haftarah that Shabbat and read one of the aliyot.  Rebecca lead services together with Elisha/Eliseo who had leaved for a number of years in the States and learned a lot of Jewish history.

Their rabbi from Toronto, Elyse Goldstein will be coming in February to bring them a Torah that has been donated by a synagogue that had closed.  They had one that they thought had been donated but it turned out to be only on a short loan, so were working out of a very small facsimile. 

I had a wonderful visit with the family and had time to rest up and get ready for my adventure!

Last year when I was at this synagogue, I wrote another blog about them.

The next morning I got a pre-arranged taxi and was off to Antigua!  
We stayed in a small pension in a gated area about 4 blocks south of the main square of Antigua, and across the street from a fancy hotel called Panza Verde--literally meaning Green Tummy--what Atiguans are called because they eat so many (delicious) avocados.  Below is the gate we entered to get to our room, one of about 9 our hostess Olga rents from the main company which owns the area.

I checked into a simple, huge, very clean room with two beds.  This was my side of the room--bad lighting for decent photo.  There was also a nice dresser and a small bathroom. We had fresh purified water delivered daily.  Guatemalans are using a special filter system called EcoFiltro, and it is amazing, started by a potter group.  Above the shower head were electric wires which heated the water as it came on....tricky but doable.  For $20 a day, we had the room, which was cleaned daily except Sunday, and 3 meals a day Monday--Saturday in a group setting where we met some very interesting people.  
We woke up to birds chirping outside.  The walk to the common area where 20 people could sit around a big table was on a dirt path that was watered down each morning to prevent dust from swirling around.  I enjoyed the flowers along the path, including a coffee plant!.

 The flower below was in an outside area with WIFI and about 5 of Olga's Rental rooms.

But the most interesting one by far was the woman across the way from us, Deet. Joan Lewis is from Chicago but has lived in Israel and has lived in Antigua, Guatemala for 24 years. When I went to my room, I noted the door on the other side had a Shalom sign by it.  After I went inside, I heard a "hello" from inside, so I went over and knocked.  Inside was a picture of a Chagall window. 

Within 5 minutes, Deet--short for Yehudit--found out that I was born in Chicago, lived in Israel and like her had a daughter born there--and also spoke the same three languages she did.  Deet is 8 years older than me, a liberal with a bent for tikkun olam, and was a fantastic neighbor.  She came to Guatemala 24 years ago to learn Spanish, and fell in love with the country, so moved here.  It is much easier for an ex-pact to live on social security here than in the US, and that is the case with her.  She is also able to find good medical and dental care and many Americans come here for good, cheap dental care.

Betsy arrived two nights after I did.  Here is a picture of us with Deet on the right.

Deet has been super-adventurous and is super-lefty.  She lived in Israel and her daughter lives in Sderot while a son lives in Madison, Wisconson with Deet's two grandchildren and is very active in the Reconstructionist synagogue there.  She has lived in Eselen and is colorful and caring.  Her latest profession is that of a very popular, local  massage therapist.  She was taking a bit of a time off as she had cracked ribs from tripping into a car and wanted to get well immediately!
Betsy arrived two nights after I did.  Here is a picture of us with Deet on the right.
  She introduced us to many places and several great NGOs.  The places included an beautiful organic nursery called Vivero Escalonia on what used  to be a big cattle ranch.  The place also has a lovely cafe where we sat several times, used the internet (ours at Olga's was iffy at times) and had delicious fruit drinks. Another beautiful place was an organic farm about a half a mile away called Caoba, which has local vendors and food for sale on Saturday.  She also introduced us to an ex-pat women's dinner on Sunday nights where up to 25 attend, and we also found out from here that over 250 participated in the Womxn's march in Antigua in support of those rallying in the US!

Her favorite local NGO is one called WINGS--Alas in Spanish--which was started by a former Foreign Service officer Sue Patterson to reach out to rural woman to help with reproductive choices and cancer screening and it has grown into a huge program helping thousands of women.  Please click on the word WINGS above to read more about it.  Deet had a collection of small Guatemalan products--scarves and purses--and for any donation of $6 or more, gave one to the donor.  Betsy and I both donated and through Deet, met Sue and went to the main office in Antigua.  We both will send in donations at home through the US website.  Women that speak the Mayan languages to out in vans to small communities to explain about birth control, tubal ligations and vasectomies (both of which cost under $50) as well as Jadelle implants, a form of LARC. Men also are employed to talk to the men in families as most women would not participate in such a program without their husband's knowledge and approval.    She also introduced me to Vicky, a woman from the US who four years ago started her own NGO to help children in a rural town here, and I visited and saw the huge impact her group is making.

There is much more I could say about Deet.  Betsy and I will truly miss her and hope we will see her again -- she is one of a kind.