Monday, October 05, 2015

A week near Mt. Hood, Oregon--Part 1 (fall, 2015)

From September 25 to October 2, 2015, three friends (N, MM, MS) and I spent a week in the Mt. Hood area of Oregon, based at the Whispering Winds Resort.  

The first day we stopped at the Wahkeena and Multnomah waterfalls along the Columbia River Gorge.

N and I walked up a short zig zag path to get closer to the lower falls.  It was a beautiful sight.

http://www.oregonhikers.org/field_guide/Wahkeena_Falls_Hike




Lower Part of Wahkeena Falls

Bottom of Wahkeena Falls
Then we drove down the road a bit to Multnomah Falls, the tallest falls in the state of Oregon.
This falls has two parts, the upper of 542' and the lower of 69'.  We walked up a short path toward the lower falls.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multnomah_Falls

A  photo from the early 1900s with the lodge 


In Sept of 1995, a 400 ton boulder fell from above the bridge 225 feet, creating a splash 70' long, dampening a wedding party below and injuring 20 members of the wedding posing for pictures.
The boulder resting at the base of the falls today
Multnomah lodge, restaurant, and git shop, to the right of the falls
The next day, we went for a short walk and saw some pretty trees on the resort grounds.
All the trails run by the Oregon parks department are numbered and for the most part well labeled.  The Forest Service has maps of the different trails and how to get to them.  We found most very useful. We stopped at the Forest Service office down the road in the town of Zig Zag.  It is open daily from about 8:45 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.


Our first walk was to Trillium Lake, man made by the power company PGE years ago as part of the creation of a hydro electric dam for power. It was about a 20-minute drive from where we were staying.   The flat walk around the lake was about 2 miles and from the southern point of the lake, we had a wonderful view of Mt. Hood.

Our first view of the mountain, when it was partly covered in clouds

Mt Hood, with its reflection in the lake
Foliage around the lake

Small trillium plant, for which the lake is named.  It has white flowers earlier in the year.
Leaves by lake, close up


It was a short walk to the Falls, about 1/4 mile each way. We walked, in part, through an old growth forest, dense and dark.


Zig Zag Creek
Tree Roots
Walking under a fallen tree

ZigZag Falls
        We then drove to Government Camp, an unincorporated town and the only one within 5 miles of Mt. Hood.  There is a ski slope at the site and hotels and other amenities for tourists.       

Government Camp Visitors' Center and Museum
 We chatted with a nice woman at the center and tried to return two other days but it was closed.  We had heard of an Indian celebration in that area (the 5th annual one of the Confederated Tribes of Warms Springs).  It was quite windy and cold, although warm enough if we stood in the sunlight.  Unfortunately, not many people attended. We saw young children do traditional dances, heard a woman in her late 70s tell of her efforts to keep her native language alive.  At this time, there are only 19 others she can talk with.  We saw some native crafts people selling their art, and bought a meal of smoked salmon.




A beaded vest

Salmon smoking
    The next day we went on a hike on the lower Old Salmon River trail, #742 A.   Three of us went RT, about 5 miles in all.
  

                 The trail wove between the river and the road, which was not heavily trafficked.  It had a number of old growth trees--cedar and fir, I believe.  At times the sun peaked through but the growth was quite dense in this rather narrow area.  We heard the river as we walked along it, saw a few campsites (mostly empty) and had a lovely walk.
Near the start of the path
Along the way, the path joined the road for a few yards before returning to the mini-forest.  At one such intersection (of three, I believe), there was a nice compostable bathroom and a climbing wall.
Man climbing up the wall

A view of the river from the path
Mushrooms growing on the trunk of a tree
N standing by an old growth cedar 
Moss growing on a cedar tree
a bridge along the way

We really enjoyed this hike.  There was little elevation but the old growth trees, the canopy above, and the river so close by were thrilling.

After our hike, we went back to our home to change clothes, rest a bit and then went to Wraptitude to get delicious take-out wraps to carry to the 6,000 foot high lodge at Mt. Hood to watch the lunar eclipse.
Sunset over Mt. Jefferson and the Three sisters to the left in the background.

Sunset to the West
First view of the eclipse




The apex was at about 7:50 and by 8:10 we decided to head back down the mountain.
It was really exciting to see the eclipse from such a high area.  

The next day we were a bit tired, but headed out to hike along Still Creek.  We found the campsite entrance but took quite a while to find the trail entry.  Finally, some friendly campers pointed us in the right direction toward the bridge which was near the start of the trail.
Yay!  We found the bridge!
V for victory!
View of the creek from the bridge


We soon headed away from the creek and into the forest.
a dead tree, possibly haven been hit by lightnihg

We saw many nurse trees along the way.  This one looked like a bonsai was growing from it.
Farther on the path narrowed and was with drop-offs to the side.  We stopped along the way to eat our sandwiches and continued on.     I was fascinated by the colors of the decaying cedar along the way.

When the narrow path headed down steeply, I turned around and two went on.  It was good to have completed the hike, but also nice to head back. 

Two of our group went in the hot tub to rest and relax.  I went back to rest and relax, waiting for the next day (purportedly warmer) to use the pool and hot tub.

Sunday, August 23, 2015

Concord, Massachusetts, Part 1-- the Start of the American Revolution and a home of Louisa May Alcott, African-Americans

I arrived in Boston at almost 2 a.m. on August 21, 7 hours late and exhausted.  I did get to see Nadav, Leah and Kai the next day before they headed out to NY for a wedding.  I took a day to recover and then Sunday drove 30 minutes to the Concord, MA area where  I spent the day at Minute Man National Historical Park and the surrounding area.

 I started at the Minute Man Visitors Center (on the right of the map above).  The walk from the parking lot to the visitor's center was short but beautiful and calming.  


 After going through the treed area, I walked by a pond and a small meadow and then turned a corner and saw the center.  It is one of the earlier ones and a more authentic structure.




At the main room in the center, there is an exhibit that tells about what happened in Boston in the days leading up to start of the Revolution on April 19, 1775.  A man was dressed in a British soldier's uniform among the explanations, waiting for people to take pictures with him.  
 I watched an excellent 25-minute multi-media  movie on the start of the American Revolution. In 5th grade, we studied earlier  U S. history and the two things I remember memorizing are the poem by Longfellow entitled "Paul Revere's Ride" 
which you can find at
http://poetry.eserver.org/paul-revere.html

and the Gettysburg Address by Lincoln,   I still remember the first lines of both.  Anyway, the movie and the explanations really helped to put things into perspective.   

The story began with the British addition of  taxes and tightening the rules for the Americans, especially in Boston.   As the militia began to store military weapons, the British decided to search and confiscate them. 

I had not remembered  that Revere and another Patriot named William Dawes started out at the same time but on different routes to go to the towns to the West to warn people that 760 British soldiers were coming to confiscate military weapons in the Concord area and to tell them to hid them. (The soldiers went by boat and then walked miles.) Another patriot named Samuel Prescott joined them at Lexington  and eventually a British patrol surprised them.  Two of the riders got away, but Revere was stopped about a quarter mile west of the visitors' center--something I had totally forgotten--and finally let go a few hours later as the British arrived.  However, the other two managed to spread the word.  (The poem I memorized never mentioned the fate of Revere.)

At Lexington the British and locals confront each other at 5 a.m..  Without any orders, a shot is fired (not sure by whom) and the British started firing, killing 8 colonials.  The British soldiers find some weapons and burn them.   The colonials think that the town is on fire and are upset.  At North Bridge  at 9:30 where the British had been on both sides of the bridge, for safety, they go to one side.  About 400  militia men group on the hills behind the bridge.  They confront the British, and the British start shooting, killing two colonials.  The colonel authorizes the men to return fire, an act of treason to the British govt, and would soon become famous as "The shot heard round the world."  The British soon stop shooting and retreat and the militia follow and gather more along the way.  Although more British troops join them, more local militia join, and the exhausted British soldiers get ambushed along the way, with  247 dead or wounded.  49 Colonists had died and 41 were wounded.  That was the start of the Revolutionary war.  

Eventually 20,000 patriots join the fighting, with recruits from MA, CT, NH and RI.  There were loosely structured  and disillusioned  until George Washington was appointed the head of "all the continental forces" on June 15, 1775 and arrived in Cambridge on July 2, greatly improving the situation.

African-Americans also fought in the revolution.  Many did so because of promise of freedom from slavery. The story of Peter Salem is an example of one.



Here is some background on Paul Revere.




The video was excellent, but I needed a change of pace.  So I skipped a few places along the trail including Paul Revere's Capture Site and Hartwell Tavern, and stopped next at Orchard House.  

The Wayside, next door, is a National Historic Monument, but is closed for remodeling/repairs.
http://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/pwwmh/ma47.html.  It had been one of Louisa May Alcott's childhood homes and later the home of Nathanel Hawthorne.  The Orchard is where Alcott lived as an adult for 19 years with much of her family.  It is privately held so there was an admission charge of $8 for seniors.  It was well worth the money.    Our guide was a high school student and she was well versed in Alcott's life and the story of Orchard House.  She has read all of Alcott's books for girls as some of her books for adults (most of which are rather "gothic.")  




Louisa's father Branson left home at 14 and peddled books, traveling through the US.  He got involved with the Transcendental movement and first brought his family to Concord in 1840.  They left 3 years later to join a utopian agrarian commune where they neither ate animals nor used any of their products.  Life was difficult and food was short, and Louisa's mom, nicknamed Marmie, insisted they return to a more normal life.  In 1845 they bought a house named Hillside but sold it in 1852 to Nathanial Hawthorne who renamed it Wayside.    In 1858, he bought the nearby property where Orchard House was to be.  Branson named it that because the property had a 12-acre apple orchard.  There were two small houses on the site, and Marmie said that house was a "pig sty."  It had been used by militia and was in sad shape.  In a year, Branson rehabbed it, combining the two structures into one.  We were not allowed to take any photos inside but I did find some online.

In the sitting room, we saw an oblong pillow that looked out of place.  It actually was Louisa's mood pillow.  If it was upright, she was is a good mood, but if it was on its side, family members knew it was best to stay away from her!

The family was mostly vegetarian and had a large garden on the side of the house.  (The father was vegan.)

Because of lack of money, the three older girls never went to school but their were tutored by their father and other local philosophers such as Thoreau and Emerson, when the sisters were not working as seamstresses, etc.  Louisa's parents encouraged them to read and all four were musical, but Elizabeth was the most talented.  There was a piano and two instruments similar to a harpsichord in the house.  About 80% of the artifacts in the house originally belonged to the Alcotts. Downstairs had a front  sitting room and dining room.  The latter was used for the girls to put on plays with the audience sitting in the front room.

Louisa's room was quite large so she could write.  She had a double bed, which she shared with her sister Anna and her two young sons when she came back to live in the house  after the death of her husband.  By the way, Anna (the eldest sister) got married on her parents' 30th wedding anniversary, in the main rooms of their house.  She didn't want a fancy, fussy wedding so just sent out the invitations on the day of the wedding, insuring that few people could come!!

Louisa was encouraged to write, and her father built a desk for her, something that was unheard of at that time.  It is the small desk on the left of the photo below.  Louisa loved owls, and there are two pictures of owls painted by her sister May, one before she went to study art in Europe and one after.
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 Louise used to run or walk 20 miles each way into Boston regularly before the Civil War. It took 4 hours each way!

Unlike Jo in the book, Louisa never married as she chose not to.  Also, her father was too old to be in the Civil War, but Louisa volunteered and worked as a nurse.  She caught typhoid pneumonia.  It was treated with a compound that had mercury, and she suffered from the side effects mercury poisoning the rest of her life.

Below is a picture of Branson and Marmie's room.  It was large, also with a double bed, and several comfortable chairs.  Marmie spent a lot of time here.  There is a large, narrow walk-in closet off of the room, and on the other side, Branson built a play room for Anna's boys.  There were also 3 original dolls that the Alcott sisters played with and one that was made by one of the sisters.  A game of Mansion of Happiness was displayed on the wall.  It was a type of "monopoly" game base don the book Pilgrims Progress.
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May (Amy in the book) was the youngest and very gifted artistically and taught art students in Concord.  One later went on to make the Minute Man Statue (pictured above) and also the sitting Lincoln of the Lincoln Memorial!

After Louisa earned money from her books, she was able to send May to Europe three times to study art.  May met her husband there, a Swiss man who was younger than she was.  They had a daughter named Louisa, but May died 6 weeks after she was born.  Eventually the child nicknamed Lulu was sent to her aunt Louisa to raise, but when the author died at age 55 (and Lulu was 9), Lulu was sent to live with her father's family in Germany and only returned once to the US but had almost no memory of Louisa.  

After Orchard house was sold, Louisa moved into Boston.  Near the end of her life she was in some sort of nursing home.  People thought that she died of complications of mercury poisoning, but lately evidence points to an auto-immune disease like lupus.

Below is a picture of May's room.  It was long and narrow and had a second, separate entrance from off of the kitchen. On the walls were pencil drawings she had made and which have been preserved.
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The house also had a bathroom/outhouse semi-built in to the house, so one did not have to go outside to use it.  It was part of what is now the gift shop by the entry to the museum.

The house held a lot of original books by Alcott as well as her father's books on philosophy.  He had originally tried to teach children, but had much more success when he taught adults and eventually moved his classes out of the house and into the School of Philosophy school which he built next to the house.



The tour lasted about 45 minutes.  I asked a lot of questions, and the guide was able to answer them quite well.   I was impressed, especially when I found out that she was just in high school.  She spoke highly of her HS, the Concord-Carlisle HS.

My visit inspired me to go back and read Little Women, 8 Cousins (the tour guide's favorite) and maybe more.  Also, recently Geraldine Brooks wrote a historical account of the fictional March family from Little Women, and I want to read that too.  It is entitled March.

Below is a link to differences between the life of the Alcotts and the March family in Little Woman.  It complements what I learned on the tour.

http://louisamayalcottismypassion.com/2010/11/11/comparing-the-march-sisters-with-their-real-life-counterparts/

I stopped briefly at the Old Manse, a privately owned home that had once been owned by the Emersons and Hawthorne, and could be considered the home of Transcendentalism, 
  

but decided to skip the 30+ minimum tour (with a change) and go to the Robbins house across the street, whose history interested me more at the moment.

This 544 square foot 1.5 story house was built in the early 1800s by former African-American slave and Revolutionary War veteran  Caesar Robbins and by fugitive slave Jack Garrison.Robbins also fought in the French and Indian War and probably was emancipated before the Revolutionary War.  . Caesar's grown children Susan and Peter were the first to live in this house.    Each family lived in one side of this small house.  Although Jack was a runaway, he never hid and was never returned to his "owner."  By sharing the house and the mortgage, the two families could afford to live there.  

There is only one photo of an inhabitant of the home.  The others just of people who lived at the time that could have lived in the home.  There are no artifacts in the home as they have no records of exactly what would have been there.

Slavery was abolished in 1783 in Massachusetts.  The African-American children in the Concord area went to school and studied together with the other children whereas in Boston schools were segregated until almost the mid 1800s.

Susan was a human rights leader, fighting for the rights of African-Americans, Indians, and women.  She was a founding member of the Concord Female Anti-Slavery society and it's only African American.   Her brother Peter had bought one side of the house for her, and although he was a hard worker, he had trouble paying the mortgage and lost the house in 1855.  

The house was later moved to the Italian District of Concord and the property was sold in about 2011.  The new owner was going to tear down the tiny structure, but a local preservation society got him to sell it to them for $1, got the land owners right next to the national park to rent them the land for $1 a year, and raised $20,000 to move the house.  It was quite a festive day when the home was moved.


I found the following chart interesting too, a listing of African Americans living near Concord historically:


You can read the history of the house and the residents who lived there at this site:
http://www.robbinshouse.org/  Here is a list of the residents;

After that I tried to stop in town for a brief lunch, but found that was impossible.  Lunch, even take out, took a half hour to get at the Main Street Market and Cafe.  I think I made a poor choice, ordered the Fish Tacos.  But I later got a yummy mocha ice cream at the Beford Farms shop.  However, I found out that a small ice cream is huge!  

From there I headed to the North Bridge Visitors Center, saw  a ten-minute film, and then walked to the North Bridge and the Minute Man Statue. The center was built in 1911 by the family that owned the property and didn't have the "charm" of the main Minute Man Visitors' Center.   
                    North Bridge Visitor Center
I then walked along an open, dirt road to get to the North Bridge.  The white oblisque  below was erected on the 200th anniversary of the city of Concord in 1836 to commemorate the battle at the bridge.
                            
The Minute Man Statue, built by Daniel Chester French in 1875.

 The views over the side of the bridge was beautiful and calming.

 And on the other side was the grave of two soldiers that died there.

It was impressive to see the bridge, to see the place where the fighting for the Revolutionary War began....but it was time to go home.

I hope to come back in two days to see the Museum, the town library,  go to the Sleepy Hollow Cemetery and take the walk from Emerson house to Thoreau Pond..

Sunday, June 28, 2015

Museum of African American History, Boston

A few days ago in June, 2015, I visited the Museum of African American History, located near the Boston Common and only about 3 blocks from the Vilna Shul that I wrote about earlier.

After visiting the Vilna Shul and Jewish Cultural Center a few blocks away from the Museum of African American History, and hearing there of the fact that Boston was one of the few places in the U. S. where  Jews followed the African Americans into the neighborhood, I wanted to learn more about African Americans historically in Boston, so I decided to visit this museum.

I took the T Red Line to Park St., which is the stop by the Boston Common.  There were some education signs about the history of the subway transportation system of Boston.


I walked through the Common on a lovely day, so very different than the  cold and snowy day when I visited the Vilna Shul a few months ago.


Lots of birds were flying around and chirping loudly.  Two were perched on a bench as I walked by.

There is a great playground that I may take grandson Eli to some day as he loves any excuse to ride the T.

The sign on the museum is small, about 5 or 6 feet up the wall.
I then turned into an alcove and saw this next sign:

So I turned left and then found this unpretentious handicapped entrance and the door to the museum.

The fee to enter was $5 for adults and $3 for students and seniors.

Unfortunately, picture taking (even without flash) is not allowed inside the museum, even in the gift shop.  I found out about the latter after I took a photo of a book.

The museum is located in what was originally the Albiel Smith School, the first school built in the US for the purpose of educating Black children. It was built in 1835. The cellar was used for primary school (children under age 7) and the main and 2nd floor were grammar school classes for girls from 7 to 16 and boys from 7 to 14. The school was named for a white businessman who donated $2000 to Boston for the education of Black children. Our guide said that up to 300 children attended the school, so classrooms must have been huge. He also said that there was just one book for the whole school and the principal was white and racist.  Because of this, many people felt justifiably that segregation of schools was definitely separate and UNequal.  A number of Blacks (led by some very strong women) began to keep their children out of this school, and eventually the doors were closed during this time.   More information the history of the school and the controversy over school desegregation from 1839 to 1855 can be found at:

http://www.afroammuseum.org/site13.htm



The 2nd floor currently has an exhibit entitled Trace the History of Black Literature:  Freedom Rising:  Reading, Writing and Publishing Black Books, and it has quite a few books written by African-Americans.  I was fascinated by the book of poetry by Phyllis Wheatley, a "Negro servant" of John Wheatley of Boston. Books written by Blacks could not be published in the US , but an English duchess offered to publish it if the author could prove that she had written the poems. Ms. Wheatley had to go before a judge and a group of 17 white men to prove that she had written the poems. She succeeded in doing so. I found out these details because I tagged along when a group of 6th graders who were with a docent who explained this story. I would have missed out of that story if I were just going through on my own.    (Details of past exhibits can be found on the website.)

I just checked and the Seattle library has several books of her poetry and about her life including a biography written in 2011 entitled Phyllis Wheatley: a Biography of a Genius in Bondage and The Trial of Phyllis Wheatley written by Henry Louis Gates, the Harvard Professor recently in the news when he got arrested for trying to get into his own home.

 The exhibits are mainly on the 2nd floor, and the third floor is mostly a meeting room where a 17-minute film is shown entitled "Building a Firm Foundation." It is narrated by a tenth-grade young woman from Roxbury. It is definitely worth watching.  The room is still used for speakers.

I then went on a 20-min. tour of the three-story African American Meeting House which was built in 1806, almost entirely by Black craftsmen. Tours are offered every hour on the hour until 3 p.m. and pictures could be taken in this area. The building served as a church as well as a community gathering place and is the oldest Black church still standing in the United States.   Unfortunately, our National Parks Service tour guide talked very fast, spewing out facts. He tried very hard but needs to learn to present better. He did say that the book "More Than Freedom" is an excellent resource. After the tour, I found excellent information on the building at: http://www.afroammuseum.org/site14.htm

Many famous people spoke there including Frederick Douglas in 1860 and Maria Stewart (a black woman), the first American-born woman to  speak publicly before a gender-mixed audience and the first African American woman to make public lectures.  More on her can be found at:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maria_W._Stewart
  
The building was remodeled in 1855 when the balcony was added, I believe.  The pews were "bought" by attendees, as was the custom of other churches in the area,  and the balcony seats were less expensive.

Our guide speaking near the pulpit
Seats and the balcony

At the end of the 19th century as African Americans moved out of the North End toward the South End and Roxbury, they were followed into the area by Jews, who then bought this building and used it for a synagogue.  This North End area was one of the few places in the U. S. where Jews followed Blacks in to the area to live, according to the guide that I had at the Vilna Shul.

As the Jews moved out of the area, the building fell into disrepair, and was bought by the Museum of African American History in 1972.  A major restoration was done in the 1990s to restore it to the way it looked after the 1855 remodel.
Inside wall before remodel
From Wikipedia:  "The slave population in Massachusetts was under 200 in 1676, 550 in 1708 and 2,000 by 1715. Slaves accounted for 2.2% of the total population from 1755 to 1764, their highest rate. There was a larger free black population, with about 10% of the population of Boston being black in 1752."  

Although Massachusetts was the first colony in New England to have slave ownership, by 1783 many slaves  were freed based on court cases in that decade saying that slave ownership was against Christian principles.  Boston and Massachusetts were in the forefront of the US in freeing slaves.

One can also go on the Black Heritage Trail, on a guided tour or on one's own.  Information can be found at:

http://www.afroammuseum.org/trail.htm

Here is a link to the trail map and its 14 stops which end at the museum.
http://www.afroammuseum.org/trailmap.htm


This was definitely a worthwhile visit and now I will read a few books on the topics to learn more about the history here.